Question 1

Which rubbers are recommended for beginner players?

Accepted Answer

Which rubbers are recommended for beginner players?

Question 2

What is the best table tennis rubber for spin, speed or control?

Accepted Answer

Control, speed and spin are three different things, as the spinniest/fastest rubber will often not be the most controllable or forgiving. Softer and more balanced rubbers like the Xiom Vega Intro or the Nittaku Factive can provide a lot of control because the ball can sink easily into the sponge but won't shoot out extremely fast, allowing for a lot of forgiveness in the strokes. But they come with the trade-off of a cap in speed and spin, as they will easily bottom out at some point. On the other hand, hard tacky rubbers can also provide a lot of control because they are very linear and sticky, so when you hit at low speeds, the ball won't sink into the sponge and the topsheet will grab the ball a bit longer, often resulting in longer dwell time. The disadvantage here is that at very low speeds and with an incomplete follow through, the ball will often go into the net because no catapult effect will apply. The fastest and spinniest rubbers are those that can store the biggest amount of energy without losing much of it when rebounding. These are rubbers like Hurricane Neo 3 Blue Sponge, Dignics 09c, Zyre 03 that contain sponges with relatively smaller pores, thicker walls and densely arranged pips so they are harder to penetrate but when activated can virtually provide unlimited power, provided the technique can also bring unlimited power in the stroke.

Question 3

How does rubber sponge thickness affect speed and control?

Accepted Answer

Thicker sponges (2.2–MAX) provide more speed and spin because the sponge can compress more and give all that stored power back. This is the philosophy behind the new Zyre 03 where the sponge is greater than it ever was (2.5mm or 2.7mm). At the same time, a very thick or a very fast sponge combined with a thick, hard and stiff blade will reduce control on your technically weak shots because the sponge + wood will catapult the ball over the net without enough spin and arch to safely bring it down to the table. Thinner sponges (1.8–2.0 mm) increase control and consistency at the price of less spin and speed, and often a harder feeling (because the blade is reached earlier), especially for beginners. Most developing players will benefit from medium thickness rather than maximum for control and stability. Most intermediate to advanced players can choose MAX sponges if they enjoy the feeling of a thicker sponge and can control it. I personally always play with 2.0mm or 2.15mm depending on the rubber and boost/no boost, but this is a matter of preference.

Question 4

How does sponge hardness affect speed and spin?

Accepted Answer

As mentioned above, a harder sponge requires more force to be activated (read: hit through or penetrate) but can store more energy and thus produce higher speed and spin at full strokes. Softer sponges activate more easily, offering better control and spin at lower swing speeds but have a cap in the amount of power they can give because they eventually bottom out (the sponge is smashed like soft cheese on a wooden platter). This can be easily understood with the metaphor of a mattress: a harder mattress can hold more weight when pressured, but when properly compressed, it will shoot you out with more energy, and vice versa. You can try this by jumping on your bed, but don't break it! However, remember that harder sponges do not automatically mean faster for all players, only for those who have the right technique to activate them.

Question 5

What is the difference between tacky and tensor rubbers?

Accepted Answer

This topic could fill in a whole page in here, but to make it easier, I will only explain the differences in how they work from a mechanical point of view: Tacky rubbers rely on their tackiness to grip the ball and produce friction at contact to create spin, while tensor rubbers let the ball sink into the sponge and spit it out with a catapult effect for speed and spin. It is generally accepted and proven by many studies that tacky rubbers have a linear nature where they generate lower speed and spin at slower impacts but exponential power at higher impacts. Average tensor rubbers work vice versa; they produce more spin and speed at lower stroke impacts but are capped in speed/spin due to their softer sponge that eventually bottoms out faster than the harder sponge of a standard tacky rubber. With shorter, smaller strokes like a serve, a tacky rubber will in principle produce more spin due to the stickiness of the topsheet, and they are also easier in the short return game because they won't catapult the ball forward.

Question 6

How long do table tennis rubbers last?

Accepted Answer

Most rubbers have their peak performance at 3–6 months for regular players that play at least 2-3 times a week for about 3h per session, but this also depends on the real usage, the nature of the rubber and the provided maintenance, especially for tacky rubbers. Due to the stickiness, dust accumulates easily, so if not cleaned properly (water, sponge, protector), they will lose their efficacy very quickly. For earlier signs of degraded performance, look for: loss of grip/slippage, reduced spin, and uneven strokes. As mentioned before, cleaning and covering your rubbers properly significantly extends lifespan. Be aware that tacky and tensor rubbers need different caring mechanisms, so do remember that!

Question 7

Why do table tennis paddles have red and black rubber?

Accepted Answer

Different colors allow opponents to distinguish between rubbers with different properties. In the past, both rubbers could be of the same color, meaning that players with non-inverted surfaces (pips and anti) would have a tremendous advantage over inverted players, because the latter would have to guess with every ball what spin they were receiving back by listening to the sound of the stroke and the incoming ball. This allowed for too much deception and made the game very different, so at some point it was changed. The new rule ensures fairness in competitive play by punishing non-inverted rubbers. Non-inverted rubbers are also at a greater disadvantage today due to the new ball and modern rubbers, which is why you now see far fewer defenders at the top of the ranking.

Question 8

What rubber colors are legal under ITTF rules?

Accepted Answer

One side must be black, while the other may be red, blue, green, purple, pink, or orange. Both rubbers must be ITTF-approved. Color choice does not affect performance in most of the cases, but in the past, Chinese rubbers were different depending on their color because of the dye that had to be used on red rubbers, while black topsheets did not have that coloring and thus were tackier and grippier than red. This led to most players always playing black on their forehand. Nowadays, this is not the case anymore with most rubbers.

Question 9

Which rubber surfaces are best for offensive play?

Accepted Answer

Offensive players typically use inverted rubbers with a medium to hard sponge on the forehand and a slightly softer sponge on the backhand. These provide the best balance of speed, spin, and predictability for looping and counter-attacking, as the modern table tennis game has become extremely fast with a reduced focus on spin-heavy shots due to the new ball and materials. Almost all non-inverted rubbers are not able to provide what's needed for the offensive play style, so inverted rubbers dominate the current pro circuits.

Question 10

How should I clean and store my rubbers?

Accepted Answer

For tacky rubbers, use water only with a soft table tennis sponge, dry them with the sponge and put a non-sticky cover protector on top. For all other non-tacky rubbers you can also use an official rubber cleaner from time to time, but still use water and a soft sponge with the protector (which can be sticky for those) after each play session. Besides that, always store your racket in a case and away from any humidity and strong light. Dirt, humidity, solar light and air exposure dramatically reduce the durability of your rubbers and blades.

Question 11

What's the difference between 5-ply and 7-ply blades?

Accepted Answer

5-ply blades are generally thinner, softer and more flexible so they provide better dwell time and control. 7-ply blades are thicker, stiffer, harder and thus faster, and more direct. This is because the more layers of wood (or carbon) you add to the blade, the thicker, stronger and heavier it becomes, so the less flexibility, faster rebound and thus lower dwell time. This can be easily understood by looking at a kitchen wooden plank. Another factor that we won't discuss here is how wooden plies are aligned, vertically or horizontally, but that also has a certain influence on the above topic.

Question 12

All-wood vs carbon blades: what's better?

Accepted Answer

One is not better than the other; they are different in how they feel and play. All-wood blades offer better dwell time and higher throw angles due to their flexibility, provide better feedback/vibration, and are more forgiving. Carbon blades increase speed and directness, stiffness/hardness and reduce vibration, but that comes at the cost of dwell time, throw angle, and feeling. Most players switch to carbon too early without realising that equipment is not the problem but their technique. That aside, different play styles benefit from one type of another so what's best for you will be different than what's best for other players.

Question 13

Are pre-assembled rackets good enough for competitive play?

Accepted Answer

Pre-assembled rackets can be fine for casual recreational players but limit speed, spin, feeling, durability and overall growth and development. If you are serious about table tennis and want to develop yourself in the sport, it is a must to get a custom setup that allows better matching of blade and rubber characteristics for your personal circumstances. This is the reason why competitive players never use premade rackets.

Question 14

How often should I replace my table tennis blade?

Accepted Answer

Blades rarely need replacing unless damaged, and many players use the same blade for years while changing rubbers regularly. This is because blades do not deteriorate as fast as rubbers; they only splinter the top layer with incorrect rubber removal or if the blade is very sensitive and has not been sealed, but the main factor of blade degradation is hitting it against the table or high humidity. Most players will benefit from using the same blade for years due to increased familiarity and feeling that brings higher consistency.

Question 15

How do I balance blade speed with rubber speed?

Accepted Answer

Hard/Stiff blades pair best with softer rubbers; soft/flexible blades work better with harder rubbers. This is because hard on hard means no dwell time and thus lack of feeling and control (like a ball bouncing on a concrete wall), and soft with soft means there is no rebound speed, meaning a good setup for defenders but not for the modern attack game. At the same time, a fast blade should not be paired with the fastest rubbers if you are a beginner or an intermediate player for logical reasons. Putting more balls on the table with good placement (wide and to the middle) is almost always better than having more power on your shots.

Question 16

Why do some blades have carbon layers?

Accepted Answer

Why do some blades have carbon layers?

Question 17

What's the difference between offensive and defensive rackets?

Accepted Answer

Offensive rackets emphasize speed and spin; defensive rackets emphasize energy absorption, control and disruption through spin variation, throw angle and placement. Defensive setups usually include softer blades with softer rubbers or non-inverted rubbers with or without sponges but some players benefit from a hard carbon blade if their defense is based on blocks and direct shots with pips. Offensive rubbers are the opposite; they focus on spin, speed and overall power and thus need inverted topsheets and thicker sponges.

Question 18

How do handle shapes affect play?

Accepted Answer

Handle choice is comfort-based for most amateurs, not based on a better or worse performance. Some players prefer flared, as this allows for a slightly tighter grip (including myself), while straight handles allow for easier twiddling of the racket. Anatomic handles fit better for certain hands, and some players also like taping their rackets to adjust to their favorite grips. Every hand is different so choose what you feel more comfortable with to avoid injuries and always test your handle before, because certain brands like DHS are notorious for their thin handles (that I personally enjoy), while others have thicker ones.

Question 19

What blade weight is best for beginners?

Accepted Answer

What blade weight is best for beginners?

Question 20

Should beginners use carbon blades?

Accepted Answer

Should beginners use carbon blades?

Question 21

How do I match equipment to my playing style? And best setups for loopers vs defenders?

Accepted Answer

Equipment should support what you're already doing well and help you improve where you want to develop. Loopers usually rely on soft/flexible blades with harder rubbers on the forehand and medium-soft tensor rubbers on the backhand, while flat hitters/blockers usually prefer harder/stiffer blades with softer rubbers and pure choppers go for blades with a lot of power dampening (soft/soft) and non-inverted rubbers. Each style and person is always going to be nuanced; that's why personalised analysis is always better than a one-size-fits-all approach. Mixing offensive blades with defensive rubbers usually causes problems, and mixing too hard of a blade with too hard of a rubber will result in dwell and feeling issues as well.

Question 22

Can I use different rubbers on the forehand and backhand?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and I believe that most players should. This is definitely less important for beginners but even beginners can benefit from understanding how body mechanics work and start with a setup that prepares them for further upgrades in the right direction later. I have explained this point in the first question of this equipment FAQ, so be sure to check that to understand!

Question 23

When should I upgrade blade vs rubber?

Accepted Answer

Upgrade rubbers first, but only when your technique is correct and your current setup is making you force your technique in wrong ways to get more power. After that, if you still need more or a different feeling, change your blade. What's important here is that blades define the feeling (vibration) and the base rebound speed (speed), while rubbers complete the setup and have more importance when it comes to speed and spin generation. A blade will also influence the throw angle due to its flexibility, but a rubber will have more impact on that, while a rubber can increase speed, but if the blade is very slow, that will have more influence on the overall feel. Please remember that changing blades and rubbers too often has effects on muscle memory and feeling, and this is usually not a good thing.

Question 24

What do speed, spin, and control ratings mean?

Accepted Answer

Speed refers to how fast the ball rebounds/leaves/shoots out from your rubber and blade when impacted, but it can also mean how much power is lost when leaving both. Spin refers to how many revolutions per minute (RPM) a blade or rubber can impart onto the ball and control is usually a mix of those things and dwell time / throw angle, which is affected by blade and rubber composition. However, these numbers are relative and non-standardized per brand, so use them with a pinch of salt. They often refer to wood/sponge properties, rebound speed, throw angle, dwell time, hardness, tackiness, gears or feeling of a particular blade or rubber. If you want the best standardised number, check Revspin or Megaspin databases, but beware when a piece of equipment has a low number of reviews; it may not be statistically significant, so use them only for rough comparison between equipment. If you only use gear from one brand then it is easier to compare ratings as they always follow the same standards but remember that real-world performance depends on technique.

Question 25

How do I know if blade and rubber are compatible?

Accepted Answer

You need to try them in real life to know the answer 100% for sure, or rely on the many reviews and videos people make, as well as brand brochures and past experience/knowledge. As a rule of thumb, remember that faster blades usually benefit from relatively softer rubbers, and softer blades, and vice versa, while hard-on-hard and soft-on-soft combinations may have their use in certain scenarios. I also believe that pairing a very fast blade with very slow rubbers to tame it is like driving a Ferrari on a child's bike wheels, so better to take a slower car with better tires. To avoid a mismatch, always do research on your own and play-test equipment for some sessions to know 100% how a blade and rubber will play together, as the first session may only give you 70-80% of the information, and this may not be enough for you.

Question 26

What is speed glue and is it legal?

Accepted Answer

Speed glue is nowadays banned in table tennis due to the toxic effects of VOCs. This type of glue contained solvents that when applied to the sponge, caused the cells within the sponge to expand, resulting in increased internal tension. As the sponge expanded, it stretched the top sheet of the rubber, creating a higher catapult effect. Modern rubbers replicate the effect legally by using VOC-free factory applied boosters, or alternatively, in the case of hard Chinese rubbers that require boosting to be played at peak performance, you can do so and customise them to your own taste at home (i.e. DHS Hurricane Neo 3 + Haifu Seamoon).

Question 27

What glues are ITTF-approved?

Accepted Answer

Only water-based table tennis glues are legal nowadays, solvent-based adhesives being prohibited, so always check your glue labels. Common water-based glues nowadays include DHS No. 15, Revolution 3 or Butterfly Free Chalk II. My personal favorite for DHS boosted rubbers is the No.15 and for any other rubbers I always use Revolution 3, but plenty of people use other glues and they work perfectly fine too, just a matter of preference.

Question 28

Are boosters legal?

Accepted Answer

This is a complicated topic but the essence of it is that boosters are forbidden by the official rules of the ITTF. According to ITTF rule 2.4.7, any physical, chemical, or other treatment of table tennis rubber after it has left the factory—including boosters, tuners, and speed glues—is strictly prohibited. During competitions, the ITTF uses "VOC-tests" to check for illegal, solvent-based boosters, but modern, VOC-free oil-based boosters cannot be detected unless the sponge surpasses the 4.0mm rule. This has led to the widespread use of VOC-free boosters such as Haifu Seamoon or Falco Long Term amongst the pro players, and it is not rare to see the Chinese top players with a bottle of booster on their tables. You can also see that their forehand rubbers are always heavily boosted when the pimples 'shine through' the topsheet.

Question 29

What are glue sheets?

Accepted Answer

Glue sheets are adhesive films used to attach rubbers cleanly. They affect how the whole racket plays so I do not recommend using them. Gluing rubbers is not difficult at all and there are countless videos online to show you how to do this, so stick (pun intended) to that.

Question 30

How do I apply water-based glue?

Accepted Answer

How do I apply water-based glue?

Question 31

How do I remove old glue?

Accepted Answer

This can be tricky depending on the glue and the sponge but the general principle is to rub the glue off gently with your thumb or index fingers and go bit by bit; it will take a while, especially on softer porous rubbers. Avoid sharp tools that could be damaging the sponge as this may ruin the rubbers. Always make sure that any remaining glue on the rubber or blade has been removed before gluing again for an optimal result.

Question 32

Should I trim the rubbers myself after gluing?

Accepted Answer

Yes, you must cut the rubber to a circle after gluing it with sharp scissors or a cutter; no rubber comes cut already because each racket is different in size, so that would risk a poor fit. Poor trimming or cutting doesn't affect play unless it is extreme, but it can look unprofessional. Don't worry about it; I have messed up many rubbers before while I was learning all the tips and tricks but it has never affected performance in any significant way. Just make sure it is properly glued and there are no air bubbles or uneven surfaces as that does affect performance.

Question 33

How do I clean my racket properly to extend lifespan?

Accepted Answer

This is different for tacky and non-tacky rubbers but as a principle, always moisten your rubbers with a bit of water and dry them with a table tennis sponge. After that, apply the rubber protectors: sticky is fine for non-tacky rubbers, and non-sticky is the one you should use for tacky rubbers. Please remember that tacky rubbers accumulate dust very quickly and they lose their performance rapidly due to that, so clean them every session.

Question 34

How should I store my racket?

Accepted Answer

Store in a table tennis case, away from heat, humidity and sunlight. Always use rubber protectors as doing both things greatly increases the longevity of your equipment. Some hard Chinese rubbers can easily last for 1 year or more and most tensor rubbers will last 6-9 months like this!

Question 35

Do protective cases matter?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Cases prevent dust, sunlight, warping due to humidity, and any kind of misuse damage. If you are known for dropping things or many people are around in a competition, get yourself a case; they are cheap insurance. Especially if you only have one racket. See what happened to Wang Chuqin during the Paris Olympics in 2024. A broken racket can totally ruin your tournament or competition, so take good care of it.

Question 36

Best case or bag type?

Accepted Answer

Hard cases offer maximum protection but they are heavier, more expensive and bulkier while soft cases are the opposite. If you travel a lot and/or go to important tournaments and competitions, a hard cover might be better for you, but be aware that you will need to cut your rubber protectors (ignore if you don't use them) accordingly to fit the racket in the case foam. If you don't want to cut your rubber protectors, a soft case is usually more suitable for that.

Question 37

How do temperature and humidity affect equipment?

Accepted Answer

Heat softens the glue and rubber while cold stiffens them. Humidity reduces grip and increases ball slippage (big issue with tacky rubbers) while negatively affecting the blade as it absorbs this humidity and becomes bigger/heavier.

Table Tennis Equipment FAQ

Rubbers & Coverings

Blades & Construction

Equipment Matching & Setup

Customization & Gluing

Maintenance & Care